Cunard Queen Anne cruise review: A lovely new ship that’s still coming into its own

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Are you thinking of a cruise on Cunard's new Queen Anne? Be warned: It's not like any Cunard ship you've seen before.The storied cruise brand's first new vessel in 14 years is notably more contemporary in its look and feel than the line's three other ships, including the iconic Queen Mary 2.It also offers venues that embrace the latest trends of travel and cruising in a way that Cunard ships haven't done in the past.As I've seen on two visits to Queen Anne since it debuted four months ago, including a weeklong stay in September as it sailed the Norwegian coast, the $600 million vessel offers more choice in dining and entertainment, more wellness options, and more of a focus on onboard celebrations than we've ever seen on a Cunard ship.

That's no small thing, given that Cunard has fielded 149 ships in its 184-year history.Still, even as Queen Anne ushers in a new era for Cunard, it's a vessel that holds true to the traditional values at the core of the line — particularly a formality and elegance that harks back to the grand old days of ocean liner travel.Overview of Queen AnneQueen Anne docked at Geiranger Fjord, Norway. GENE SLOAN/THE POINTS GUYQueen Anne is the new belle of the ball when it comes to Cunard ships. Unveiled in May, it's far younger and more up to date than the three other ships in the Cunard fleet, which range from 14 to 20 years in age.

It also has a smorgasbord of new-for-the-line dining and entertainment venues that tap into the latest trends in hospitality.Unlike other Cunard vessels, for instance, Queen Anne features a wide array of extra-charge eateries, ranging from a Mediterranean cuisine venue where the dishes are sprinkled with African and Arabic influences to one of the first contemporary Indian restaurants on a cruise ship.That's on top of the four relatively formal main restaurants that have long been at the core of the Cunard dining experience (one each for each class of onboard cabins — if you're in a Britannia-class cabin, your main eatery is the Britannia Restaurant; if you're in a Princess Grill suite, your main eatery is the Princess Grill).

Daily NewsletterReward your inbox with the TPG Daily newsletterJoin over 700,000 readers for breaking news, in-depth guides and exclusive deals from TPG’s expertsQueen Anne also has a broader array of entertainment options than past Cunard ships, including an all-new cabaret venue that is home to a murder mystery theater show for part of every cruise.Like all Cunard ships, it's a vessel that maintains longtime ocean liner traditions such as gala evenings where passengers wear black tie and ballgowns and nightly dancing in a grand ballroom (something you no longer find on most ships).

But alone for now in the Cunard fleet, Queen Anne aims to bridge the gap between such traditions and a more contemporary sort of cruising — not just in the venues it offers on board but in its overall look and feel.It's been a change that hasn't been without controversy. Some Cunard regulars have mercilessly (and sometimes hilariously) panned the ship at online review sites, citing both the new look and what they say are obvious design flaws.Queen Anne also clearly has suffered from teething pains in its first four months at sea, with Cunard fans reporting listless service, mediocre food in some eateries and uninspired entertainment.

These are all things that I saw, too — so much so that I'm hesitant to recommend that passengers book this ship just yet. While lovely, it's not quite ready for prime time.That said, if Cunard can work out the kinks over the coming months, particularly in the areas of service and specialty dining, Queen Anne has the potential to be a wonderful cruise ship.What I loved about Queen AnneThe new lookQueen Anne has a more contemporary look than past Cunard ships. GENE SLOAN/THE POINTS GUYPut me down as firmly in the camp that loves the new look.

Make no mistake, I have long enjoyed the ocean liners-of-old design of Cunard vessels. Sailing on the Atlantic-crossing Queen Mary 2, in particular, is like stepping onto the movie set for "Titanic," which definitely has an appeal. Combined with Cunard's focus on old-style tradition and elegance, it has given Cunard something unique in the world of cruising. But that doesn't mean the brand has to be forever stuck in the past.In my view, which admittedly isn't shared by some Cunard fans, Cunard has artfully updated its design and onboard offerings for modern-day cruisers in a way that doesn't lose the tradition and elegance for which its ships have long been known.

Related: This movie will give you a sense of a transatlantic Cunard voyageThe British feelGet your British on at Queen Anne's Golden Lion pub. GENE SLOAN/THE POINTS GUYLike all ships operated by United Kingdom-based Cunard, Queen Anne has a particularly British feel. It's a vessel where mushy peas and fish-and-chips (along with other British culinary favorites) are on the lunch buffet not just once a sailing but every day, and afternoon tea is a major event. It's also a ship where one of the busiest drinking spots is the (very traditionally English) pub.

But beyond such Britishness in food and drink, it offers a uniquely British style of prim and properness that is perhaps Queen Anne's most distinctive feature. It is a ship, for instance, where even on nights when the dress code is a relaxed "smart" casual, most passengers arrive for dinner in a jacket, some in full coat-and-tie. It's a vessel where you generally don't see people being loud or garish or otherwise inappropriate.For American cruisers increasingly aghast at the way some passengers behave (and dress) on mass-market American vessels, where anything-goes American values rule the day, it can be wonderfully refreshing — a throwback to what cruising was across the board not all that long ago.

Of course, for some Americans, it might come off as just plain stuffy.What I didn't love about Queen AnneThe hard-to-navigate top deckLocked doors make getting across the top deck of Queen Anne difficult. GENE SLOAN/THE POINTS GUYGetting around the top deck of Queen Anne is easy — if you're staying in a top suite. Otherwise, it's like navigating a maze. That's because a significant chunk of the middle of the top deck is devoted to a private sunning area for the swells in top suites. If you're not booked in such a suite (and thus do not have the secret keycode to enter and cross this elites-only zone), you can't easily get from the sunning and sports deck areas at the front of the ship to the pool area at the back.

The only way to do it is to descend into the interior of the vessel and walk across its already congested buffet restaurant (called the Artisans' Foodhall).This, in turn, adds to the congestion of the buffet, which itself has design flaws (most notably, its self-serve drinks stations are inexplicably located along the crowded walkways through the eatery, such that you'll smack right into people pouring hot coffees and teas as you work your way across the space).The crowdsPassengers wait in line for tea-time snacks at Queen Anne's buffet.

GENE SLOAN/THE POINTS GUYQueen Anne is more packed with people than Cunard's three other vessels, in a way that affects the experience. Seats are hard to come by for some shows, and the crew seems more harried than usual. The cabin experience is also diminished in some cases.The numbers tell the story: At 113,000 gross tons, Queen Anne is 24% bigger than Cunard's last new vessel, the 14-year-old Queen Elizabeth. But Cunard has jammed 44% more cabins (and thus 44% more people) onto the vessel. Queen Anne holds 2,996 passengers at double occupancy (two passengers per cabin), up from Queen Elizabeth's capacity of 2,081 passengers at double occupancy.

Notably, this drops the ship's "space ratio" of space (measured in hundreds of cubic feet) to passengers to just 37.8, which isn't a great number. By comparison, Queen Elizabeth has a space ratio closer to 44. The line's flagship Queen Mary 2 has a space ratio around 56.The spotty serviceI truly was excited to sail on Queen Anne, as I've long loved the elegance and refinement of Cunard vessels. I figured Cunard's first new ship in 14 years would set a new benchmark for the brand. Alas, what I experienced on board was a vessel that wasn't quite functioning right, mostly in the area of service.

I've sailed on more than 200 ships in 30 years of writing about cruising, including lots of just-out-of-the-shipyard vessels, and I've rarely encountered one where the crew members seemed as untrained and indifferent as they seemed on Queen Anne. It wasn't in every space. The servers in the exclusive restaurant for Princess Grill passengers were fabulous, catering to my every need. The bartenders at the casino bar (Room 1840) were a delight. But in many other venues, I regularly encountered crew who didn't seem to know what they were supposed to do or how to interact with passengers.

Some venues also just didn't have enough staff to function properly.Queen Anne cabins and suitesThe bed area in a Princess Grill suite. GENE SLOAN/THE POINTS GUYQueen Anne has 28 cabin and suite categories — a large number. But finding the right cabin category for you isn't as complicated as that number might make it seem. As is often the case on cruise ships, many cabin categories on Queen Anne are essentially the same, with the exception of where the rooms are located.For instance, there are nine categories of balcony cabins, all basically the same in size and decor.

The only differences among most of them are whether they are located at the front, middle or back of the ship and whether they have a clear or obstructed view.Similarly, there are five categories of ocean-view cabins (those with a window but no balcony) and six categories of windowless inside cabins. The only difference between them is location.There are eight categories of suites, some of which also are essentially the same except for their locations.1 of 6Princess Grill suites aren't true suites, as they don't have a secondary room.

They are spacious nonetheless. GENE SLOAN/THE POINTS GUYAll that said, when booking accommodations on Queen Anne, it's important to know that the type of cabin you book will have a significant impact on your cruise experience beyond what you'll experience in your room.Unlike most lines, Cunard still operates with an old-school class system, where passengers dine and lounge on ships in different places depending on their cabin category.Most of Queen Anne's 1,498 cabins — including all inside and ocean-view cabins and most balcony cabins — are what's known as Britannia cabins.

When you book passage in one, you'll dine in the ship's cavernous Britannia Restaurant at night (when not at an extra-charge specialty restaurant) and only have access to the non-elite lounge areas of the ship.For those wanting something more exclusive (and willing to pay for it), there are three higher tiers of accommodations with ever-greater levels of pampering and perks:Britannia Club cabins. These 162 balcony cabins are similar to standard balcony cabins but come with access to a more intimate private restaurant for breakfast, lunch and dinner.

Princess Grill suites. A big step up from Britannia Club cabins, these 127 rooms — all suites — come with concierge service and access to an exclusive lounge area (the Grills Lounge) and a restaurant (the Princess Grill) for breakfast, lunch and dinner. In addition, you'll get access to a spacious private outdoor sun deck called the Grills Terrace.Queens Grill suites. These 65 suites are the ship's finest accommodations. Measuring 484 to 1,440 square feet, they come with butler service, concierge service, upscale touches such as fresh flowers, and access to an elegant private restaurant (the Queens Grill) for all meals.

In addition, you get access to the same Grills Lounge and Grills Terrace as those staying in the Princess Grill suites.My room was a Princess Grill suite, and the exclusive private areas that came with it really were wonderful. I particularly loved my special access to the Grills Lounge, a stylish bar and lounge space. Filled with curvy chairs upholstered in luscious peacock blue fabric, with a striking circular chartreuse seating area as a focal point, it served as a quiet escape from the ship's bustling public areas.

A striking seating area within the only-for-elites Grills Lounge. BELINDA LUKSIC/FOR THE POINTS GUYOne deck up, the private Grills Terrace was a similarly serene and uncrowded oasis for decktop lounging that felt a world away from the busier public areas atop the ship.Like all Princess Grill suites, my room measured about 300 square feet, including its balcony area. That's quite large for a cruise ship cabin, and it was room enough to contain everything I could want in a cabin for a week at sea: a king bed that could be split into two single beds, a built-in desk area, a separate built-in cabinet hiding a miniature refrigerator, a seating area with a sofa and chair, built-in closets, and a bathroom.

For the most part, I was happy with my Princess Grill suite on Queen Anne. While it wasn't inordinately high-end in its finishings, it had a clean-lined, contemporary look that felt modern and up to date. A recurring circular motif in its carpeting, lighting and mirror gave it a whiff of an art deco feel, one that was augmented by the room's red and gold accents (a nod to Cunard history, as they are two of Cunard's signature colors).1 of 6Princess Grill suite bathrooms are relatively small but well designed.

GENE SLOAN/THE POINTS GUYWhile surprisingly small in relationship to the overall size of the room, the bathroom in my Princess Grill suite was modern and bright, with a well-thought-out layout that made the most of its limited space. I particularly liked the relatively large walk-in shower and ample shelving space for toiletries — a sign that its designers understood what matters most to cruisers (unlike the designers of the poorly laid-out bathrooms on the new Seabourn ship that I just tested a few weeks ago).

If my Princess Grill suite had a flaw, it was in the lack of adequate storage in the room. Given the formality of Cunard ships, which requires that passengers pack elegant eveningwear (think ballgowns and tuxedos) in addition to everyday clothing, the storage needs for Cunard passengers are higher than for passengers on some other lines. Cunard ships (and Queen Anne in particular) also often make longer sailings that require more clothes.While there was enough storage in my room to pack away everything my companion and I brought for a weeklong sailing, it would have been tight if we had been on one of the ship's longer two-week sailings.

I can't imagine how it'll work for passengers on the monthslong around-the-world sailings that are planned for the vessel starting in January.One detail of the room I truly loved was the placement of large nightstands with large drawers on each side of the bed where I could hide away all my electronics and their cords, books, papers, glasses and the like. Bedside storage at this level is increasingly rare on ships. What's more, each of the nightstands was topped with a U.S.-style 110-volt outlet, a British-style 220-volt outlet, and both USB-A and fast-charging USB-C ports.

Bravo, Cunard, for knowing how to keep us charged.Other Queen Anne cabin tidbits:Every cabin has a small hair dryer that works with the ship's specific current. Leave yours at home.Rooms have nicely wide personal safes that can hold even a big laptop.There are Cunard-red "Do Not Disturb" magnets to stick to your door when you don't want to be disturbed. Flip them over, and a steward will make up your room. It's not a sophisticated system, but it works.Cabin televisions offer a wide range of movies on demand at no extra charge, a nice touch (some of Cunard's competitors charge as much as $11.

99 to watch a movie).The Princess Grill suites seem like a sweet spot to me when it comes to the higher-end accommodations on Queen Anne. They get you the same exclusive access to private indoor and outdoor lounge areas as the higher-priced Queens Grill suites and access to a private restaurant, too, but at a significantly lower price point.That said, if you're looking for the ultimate in Queen Anne swankiness, you'll find it in the Queens Grill suites.The best suites on Queen AnneThe two largest Queens Grill suites, called Grand suites, measure an astounding 1,440 square feet — nearly five times the size of my Princess Grill suite.

They boast a bedroom, a master bathroom with a separate bath and shower, a large living room, a dining room, a powder room, a private balcony, and a walk-in closet.Also impressive are the ship's four Queens Grill Master suites, which measure 896 square feet. They also feature a bedroom, a master bathroom with a separate bath and shower, a living room, a dining room, a powder room, a private balcony, and a walk-in closet.The remainder of the Queens Grill suites are split between Queens Grill Penthouse suites, which measure 501 to 527 square feet, and slightly smaller Queens Grill suites, which measure 484 to 500 square feet.

Each has a bedroom, a bathroom with a separate bath and shower, a living area, and a private balcony.In addition to fresh flowers, Queens Grill suites come with personalized stationery, fresh fruit daily, predinner canapes and a complimentary minibar, including alcoholic drinks and soft drinks.As noted above, Queen Anne's designers have packed a lot more cabins on Queen Anne than on earlier Cunard ships, and they did it in part by shrinking the size of some cabins. While standard balcony cabins on Queen Anne are just a tad smaller than balcony cabins on the line's past two new ships (236 square feet versus 239 square feet), the differential with Princess Grill suites is more noticeable.

Princess Grill suites measure 335 square feet on Queen Elizabeth and Queen Victoria — about 10% more space than my Princess Grill suite on Queen Anne. Princess Grill suites on the line's flagship, Queen Mary 2, measure a far more generous 381 square feet.At the Queens Grill level, there are notably no two-deck-high duplexes measuring more than 2,000 square feet on Queen Anne, as you'll find on the Queen Mary 2, which remains Cunard's reigning monarch for over-the-top accommodations.Related: Cunard cabins and suites guide: Everything you want to knowQueen Anne restaurants and barsCunard has never been known for having ships that offered lots of dining options, but that changed notably with the debut of Queen Anne.

It boasts 15 different places where you can grab a bite — more than double the number on the line's other ships. It also offers quite a few bar options, including several new-for-the-brand venues.RestaurantsAs on all Cunard ships, the dining scene on Queen Anne revolves around four main restaurants: Britannia, Britannia Club, Princess Grill and Queens Grill — only one of which you will experience during any given cruise.In keeping with Cunard's old-fashioned class system of dining, you'll be assigned a table in one of the four eateries for the duration of your cruise based on the type of cabin you book.

The cavernous Britannia Restaurant is the main eatery for passengers in most cabins. GENE SLOAN/THE POINTS GUYThe vast majority of passengers — those in the least expensive windowless inside cabins, ocean-view cabins and most balcony cabins — are assigned to the least intimate of the four eateries: the expansive, two-level Britannia Restaurant. It's packed with close-together tables that can hold 596 people at a time — a banquet hall sort of number.Dinners on the lower level of the Britannia Restaurant take place during two fixed seatings each night, while the second level is reserved for diners on an open-seating plan (arrange this in advance).

Breakfast and lunch have open seating.Passengers who pay up for one of 162 premium balcony cabins will be assigned a table in the more intimate Britannia Club restaurant. It's designed to hold up to 339 passengers and doesn't turn over tables for multiple seatings. If you book this class, you have a specific table in the eatery that is available whenever you want to dine during breakfast, lunch and dinner hours.The more intimate Queens Grill on Queen Anne is for passengers in top suites. GENE SLOAN/THE POINTS GUYEven more intimate and upscale are the Princess Grill and Queens Grill restaurants, which are assigned to passengers staying in suites.

The Princess Grill is for passengers booked in the ship's 127 smaller suites, known as Princess Grill suites. The Queens Grill is for passengers in the ship's 65 biggest suites.In the Princess Grill and Queens Grill, as with the Britannia Club restaurant, you'll have a specific table that is available to you whenever you want it during dining hours.Among the four main eateries, I only was able to experience the Princess Grill, as I was staying in a Princess Grill suite. Serving mostly classic Continental cuisine, it offered a refined dining experience with top-notch service, as you'd expect from an eatery reserved for passengers in top suites.

Elaborate dishes such as chateaubriand and Dover sole meuniere (the latter expertly deboned and plated tableside) were available every night, as were such showy desserts as bananas Foster and cherries jubilee that were flamed tableside — a throwback to first-class travel during ocean liner days.1 of 6The Princess Grill restaurant features such high-end touches as servers preparing Dover sole meuniere tableside. GENE SLOAN/THE POINTS GUYIn addition to the four eateries above, Queen Anne also has a wide range of alternative dining options — something that isn't the case with other Cunard ships.

These include four new-for-the-line extra-charge dining concepts: Aranya, an Indian eatery; Tramonto, serving Mediterranean dishes; Aji Wa, a Japanese restaurant; and Sir Samuel's, a steakhouse.I tried nearly all these new restaurants while on board and, alas, was disappointed with them all for varying reasons.Both Aranya and Tramonto, which came with upcharges of $35 and $20, respectively, seemed like eateries added to the ship as afterthoughts. Both were in carved-out corners of the buffet area, and they had the ambience you might expect from such a location.

From my table at Aranya, I looked out over a sad landscape of empty tables and a trolley cart with glasses in the buffet. Tramonto's ambience was better, thanks to the addition of a built-in wine cabinet blocking the buffet view. But it still suffered from being aside one of the main thoroughfares into the buffet.1 of 3A soft-shell crab appetizer at Aranya wasn't a wow. GENE SLOAN/THE POINTS GUYFoodwise, the 38-seat Aranya was the biggest disappointment.